Symi
Dodecanese, Greece
The ferry crests the headland and turns its back on the silhouette of the Turkish coastline. In the distance, perfectly proportioned Neoclassical homes in ice cream colours spill artfully down the mountain into the shimmering harbour, like tutti fruity sprinkles.
Tutti Fruity sprinkles
You never tire of that first taste of Symi. I return every year, just for that glimpse of Greece's less glitsy version of the Amalfi coast.
Dabs of colour from the town soften the obdurate limestone, parched oregano and scorched sage which characterise the island's terrain. Perhaps it’s no surprise then that most of the town’s buildings are made of sponge.
OK, not literally.
19th Century Symniot merchants set off in boats laden with locally harvested sponges, to trade with Venice, Marseille, Izmir and the like. They returned with decorative artefacts and modern ideas. The Neoclassical style was all the rage at the time, so the lucrative sponge trade brought grand and colourful styling to Symi. Way more impressive than your typical white Greek village.
Nowhere's more noble than on the Kali Strata, Symi’s very own version of Park Lane. It winds 500 lung busting steps up from Yialos (the harbour town) to Horio (the upper town). Wealthy merchants built impressive villas, few with much of a harbour view. They were designed to see the steps, or more importantly, be seen from them. Nowadays it’s impossible to stroll the Kali Strata without playing several rounds of the familiar holiday game ‘That’s the one I’d do up’.
Mind you, it’s nigh on impossible to stroll the Kali Strata full stop.
One of the joys of Symi, beside its sunny climes, is its scenic climbs. Whichever lowly passage you begin your ascent from, you'll no doubt merge with the imposing Kali Strata before too long and indulge in a spot of social climbing.
If you’re not inclined to inclines you could always stick to the harbour and crane your neck up, or take the bus. But to enjoy the full Symi experience you have to learn to love those steps. Just take them slowly. Blue and uniform, wonky and wobbly, smoothed by time or concrete chic, each set gets you a little closer to who knows where.
‘Who knows?’ being the perfect mantra for finding your way around Symi.
Pops of colour in the Horio
Another perfect navigation strategy is ‘left at the church, right at the next’. Symi claims more churches than days of the year, so this line of attack will help you explore without going round in circles.
Perfectly imperfect
Or there's the Katarraktis. A rather grand back stairs up the side of the mountain to the somewhat more lowly upper town. I've dubbed it Stairway to Heaven.
Katarraktis derives from the Greek word for waterfall, which tells you something! (The YouTube link below paints an even more vivid picture). The views are certainly refreshing and although you’ll be well and truly soaked-through with sweat by the top, the slice of paradise that awaits you is worth the mild purgatory.
When I say paradise, everything's far from perfect. And the higher you go, the less perfect it gets. Symi's appeal lies in the juxtaposition of grand and classic, with weathered and characterful. Tumbled down and done-up mingle flawlessly.
In Symi’s salt baked climate paint doesn’t stand much of a chance. It flakes and blisters in protest, artistically revealing previous colour choices, or the bare structure of a building.
The paint’s suffering is a painter’s delight. Or a photographer’s. I've spent many a blissful hour trying to capture the texture, colour and patina in either medium.
In terms of ‘not to miss’ sights, you may have gathered that Symi doesn’t really have any. Yes, there’s a museum and something called a ‘castle’, but really, every twist and turn, crumbling wall, and lofty panorama is not to be missed. Hence the focus on wandering and finding.
while the harbour is all about amazing reflections and views up, the upper town is all about run down beauty and views all around. Everything in between is why you really need several days for Symi's magic to rub off on you.
Early one morning, I sat painting my favourite ruin, the one with the door that was previously green leaning ajar in its archway. As is typical for Symi, the ruin abuts a pristine blue and white house sporting a proud blue door.
On the doorstep sat two bottles of water, perched like milk bottles. Until a slight old lady strolled by and blatantly swiped one of them. She proceeded to tour the neighbourhood, topping up the local cats’ water bowls. Only to return moments later with a fresh replacement. Each time I passed the blue door there were always two full bottles poised in readiness.
Maybe the one?
It's a scene, like many in Symi, that barely changes from one day to the next, bar the odd bit of paint flaking imperceptibly off, to further fade the memory of the door’s previous greenness.
Pediment or impediment? Symi's Neoclassical style.
In fact, for all Symi’s vibrancy, houses can only be painted in a prescribed palette of colours; yellow ochre, lime yellow, ox blood, terracotta, salmon pink, pale blue, sky blue and white, with green also allowed for woodwork. Even new builds have to conform to the formal architectural style with obligatory triangular pediment.
But far from being an impediment, that's where the conformity ends. Take in any Symi vista, and your eyes tingle with the myriad permutations wrung out of the familiar palette.
Of course, like much of Greece, the coolest colour is the azure blue glimpsed in the many isolated coves around the island. Best seen from the round the island booze cruise.
Although, if what you most aspire to most from a holiday is hitting the beach, then Symi isn’t for you.
But if you do fancy the odd day on a sun lounger, there is a choice of ‘beaches’. They’re all pebbly and a boat ride away, but you’ll have a great taverna lunch and get that amazing view of town as you swoosh back. It's all very 'Talented Mr. Ripley'. My favourite and probably the most upscale is Agia Marina.
On the subject of eating, the stand out taverna is Tholos. The view across to Turkey makes the perfect amuse bouche. Followed by a starter called ‘fava’, which when served, they describe as ‘hummus’. Whatever, it’s nothing like any dip you’ve ever dipped.
And of course, don’t miss Symi shrimp, pink and petite. Just pop them in whole. Ideally washed down with something cold and white.
I’ve already bigged up the Kali Strata. At the top is an upscale taverna by the same name. You’ll no doubt find yourself in there a fair bit! I can picture nowhere nicer.
Also worth a shout is Pantelis, down beside the yachts. You’ll need to book before those yachties nab all the tables.
Azure glimpses
There are plenty of intermediate hotels and airbnbs throughout town. But there’s really only one place to stay. With a balcony giving onto the best show in town: the sun's journey across and around this tutti fruity concoction. The views from the terrace are the inspiration for this blog.
E-mail me and I might tip you off.
But not before securing my own booking!
A Few Links and Practicalities
(Just sharing the love. I absolutely don’t get paid for these.)
Symi is just over an hour by ferry from Rhodes. Schedules can be researched and ferries booked at www.ferries.gr or www.sebeco.gr
It’s often impossible to fly from the UK and make the last ferry of the day, requiring a night’s stop on Rhodes. In which case, you want to stay in Rhodes Old Town. Specifically, you want to stay at Marco Polo Mansion, one of my favourite restaurants in the world. Ideally for two or three nights. Their colourful garden oasis is simply the perfect place to dine, sample Greek wine and enjoy breakfast time. Rhodes Town has both explorable bits and best-avoided bits. (You’ll know which is which immediately). www.marcopolomansion.gr
Back on Symi, if money’s no object, then the Old Markets Hotel is definitely for you. Or, if you’re a whole houseparty’s worth, look at Anchor House in Harani.
Tholos +30 694 099 7916
Kali Strata restaurant +30 2246 071992
Pantelis restaurant +30 697 726 1710
To navigate to the Katarraktis, find the sweet shop in town and head to the right, past the hotel Castello Venetsiana, then keep heading up. Good luck! This clip gives you an idea of what a sudden winter downpour can bring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zkSOLbByaPA
Don’t miss;
Poseidon's round the island booze cruise and BBQ.
Panormitis at the other end of the island is worth a pilgrimage.
Other than that, you simple explore.