Marrakech
Morocco
Navigating the Medina of Marrakech is rather like making paella.
As any chef knows, when you add the spice and stock to a paella, it’s imperative to not stir the rice for 19½ minutes. This lets ‘stock runs’ form, along which the fluid and flavour circulate freely.
It’s the same in the alleys and derbs of the Medina. You will get lost within minutes, guaranteed. But by day 2, familiar stock runs will have formed.
Getting lost is guaranteed
All your journeys will begin in one of two set piece ways. Past that narrow wonky bit, swerve for the oncoming motorbike, look for the cobalt door next to the cheerful old guy with one tooth, sharp right at the shop with the oversize lanterns and right again at the woman with a mountain of Berber pancakes … and then … you get lost.
Locals will helpfully point you to ‘Le Grand Place’. Don’t take them up on it. The Jemaa el-Fnaa will find you soon enough, probably while you’re en route somewhere else, and it’s debatable whether it warrants a detour. Although, when you do inevitably emerge into it, it's definitely worth a dawdle. Snake charmers charm, hawkers hawk, story tellers tell tall tales. And dentists pull teeth, right there on a wonky chair in the centre of the square. Or at least they threaten to. I’ve never actually seen it done.
The Jemaa el-Fnaa is a rich hot pot of humanity with myriad side hustles. (Despite the food metaphor, you’d have to be certified insane to actually eat there).
Detour done, it’s back to the bubbling paella.
Marrakech hadn’t been stirred for quite some time. Four hours flight, and you’re a couple of millennia from home.
Passing through one of the many Babs into the Medina has always felt like visiting somewhere Biblical; donkey carts, a complete absence of cars (some are banned, the rest simply don’t fit), Berbers wearing heavy woollen robes, butchers with piles of red meat, mountains of coloured babushka, wise men doing absolutely nothing on the street, the wailing echo of religious chants, myriad minarets, walls, ruins and rubble all of reddish stone, well-worn coins and fragrant bank notes. Everything’s a haggle and everyone’s on the make.
But, for all its frenetic energy, there had always been something a little jaded, weary and washed-out about Marrakech. A kind of hippy tat hangover, with a dose of dusty snake charmer chic.
Heading out
Right now, however, Marrakech hasn’t so much been stirred, as thoroughly shaken up. Literally, of course, with the earthquake of 2023. And you’ll notice structural evidence of that all around, with makeshift wooden supports hard at work dissuading ancient walls from taking a lie down and steel corsets tightly hugging minarets like their life depended on it. Which it probably does.
Bahia Palace
Thankfully, Marrakech was only lightly scathed, and the real shake up has been spiritual.
The earthquake followed COVID, bringing yet another sudden exodus of Marrakech’s life blood; tourism. This has proved a profound catalyst, and the whole city seems to have been to charm school to welcome in the outside world. You’ll notice it in the salaam, the shopping and the social scene. Two years since my previous visit, Marrakech now feels alive, fresh, even a little cool.
Those familiar with the old quirks of Morocco will observe peculiar behaviours. Someone will volunteer help and offer directions without leading you down back alleys to their uncle’s carpet emporium. Others will talk to you without agenda, bar friendship and curiosity. The effect is transformational, allowing you to feel happy and curious, rather than cagey and cautious.
In some shops you'll be left to browse without the shopkeeper pouncing on you the moment you touch something and chasing you through the souk for the rest of your stay. The souks shut up shop on the dot of closing time, just like any shopping mall back home. Some stalls remain resolutely in trinket territory, but others in certain quarters embrace fresh influences and creativity; fashion and homewares with a unique fusion of influences, African and European, Berber and global nomad. All with colour and pattern to saturate the retina and jolt the jaded mind. Not to mention prices that bust the London benchmark.
Every new opening is now a 'concept store'. What that concept is, other than selling nice stuff, they don't really say.
If shopping’s your thing, make sure you’ve spare capacity in both your carry-on and your credit limit. And allow time to stroll, particularly around the crossroads of Rue Mouassine and Route Sidi Abdelaziz. Or if you're particularly flash (and flush) the Rue Yves St Laurent.
Ben Youseff Madrassa
Then there’s the eating, drinking and social scene. Things are moving on apace from the tired cous cous, tajine and kebab trope. There are recommendations below, but my single most useful piece of advice is to book. Many of the hot places are hard to get into, and hot for good reason.
Haircut sir?
A particular bonkers favourite of mine is Dar Dar Rooftop. Its terrace is evidently where all the beautiful people in Marrakech hang out. I was duly ushered downstairs to the less beautiful people's salon.
‘Dar’ means ‘House of’, so ‘Dar Dar’ must mean ‘House of house’, a kind of nonsense. Although nothing like the nonsense you’ll experience when actually there. The vibe is Gypsy Kings meets Verbier aprés meets souk chic, with the staff there to get the party started, not just serve. Even mixing a cocktail is cause for mass jubilation, song and synchronised clapping. I had a perfect Negroni in my hand within a minute of arriving and another about 10 minutes later. I don’t recall much else after that, other than it all being tremendous fun.
There are secret gems like this popping up all across the Medina. Get friendly with your riad and they’ll mark your card. Or better still, get Googling and book before you arrive.
On the subject of hidden gems, Le Jardin Secret was absolutely packed, somewhat ironically. Methinks the secret got out! For good reason, as this wonderful riad sits right in the prime Mouassine area of the Medina (think Moroccan Knightsbridge).
The story goes it took several years to buy up the hundreds of individual properties that made up the site. Over that period, several mega luxury hotels arrived in force in Marrakech, so plans to build another were duly shelved, and the decision was taken to re-establish an Islamic garden on the site instead.
For all the interest in riad properties, the word ‘riad’ actually refers to the garden at the heart of a property, and it’s the experience of open air and tranquillity amidst the dense, frenetic alleys of the city that crystallises their appeal. The real joy of this huge riad is losing yourself in the dense jungle of the entry courtyard, then transitioning via a narrow slot in the ox blood wall into a vast Islamic garden, ordered, generous and serene, with bubbling water fresh from the Atlas and the waft of lavender straight from Provence.
It’s pure landscape theatre.
A shot of citrus yellow
But if it’s theatricality you seek, it’s got to be the Majorelle Gardens, Yves Saint Laurent’s erstwhile hang out. This is definitely not a secret. Crowds galore, online-only tickets, timed entry slots and an annoying follow-the-leader circuit all kill the spontaneity. But after a while the procession thins and you get to do what the gardens are for; wandering and marvelling.
Majorelle Blue
The thing you will marvel at most is Majorelle Blue. Arguably the most intense shade of azure you’ll ever encounter. It even rivals the radiance of namesake, International Yves Klein Blue.
This vivid shade makes a perfect backdrop for the vibrant green of foliage and cacti, punctuated by shots of citrus yellow and flaming terracotta from surrounding pots. It’s landscaping zenith and art direction perfection.
Incidentally, pots of Majorelle Blue paint are available to buy in the gift shop, and you’ll find yourself seriously contemplating why your garden back home is so drab and so predictably green.
Do resist the temptation though, it’s not a look that travels well to our land of grey skies.
Indeed, it’s the intensity of Marrakech’s blue skies that make the red city sizzle. Searing ochre stonework, bright white caps on the distant Atlas mountains and splurges of colour in every doorway. Your retinas will burn and your brain will fry. That’s when you need a good riad.
From the moment you retreat across your riad’s threshold, a feeling of subdued serenity takes over. The formula is perfect. Riads fold in on themselves, centred on their cooling pools and soaring palms. Only to open up again on the roof, to panoramic views over and above the frenzy all around.
Entering my riad involved the added theatre of having to knock twice on the robust and deceptively downbeat door, to be greeted by the magic words "Welcome home, Mr. Richard". The mood beyond the door was even more magical. The peace, priceless.
Berber Ferrari
And it is for that contrast that I will forever dream of returning to feast on the saffron and pimenton spices flowing through the Marrakech Medina.
A Few Links and Practicalities
(Just sharing the love. I absolutely don’t get paid for these.)
Best to have your hotel organise your transport in from the airport. Many hotel entrances are unremarkable and impossible to locate. The magic all happens behind the inconspicuous old door. Besides, chances are you’ll need to be met and escorted the last bit of the way on foot, with your luggage completing the journey by the surprisingly nippy ‘Berber Ferrari’, AKA trolley.
I’m afraid my general advice for a good experience in Marrakech is to pay. Spending top dollar more or less guarantees you the best experience, with the consequences of skimping not really worth testing out.
Where to stay
Where to start? There are literally thousands of riads to choose from. Most with similar sounding names. Below are my favourites to date, but I don’t claim to have done all the groundwork. Not yet.
Riad Le Farnatchi: www.lefarnatchi.com
One of Marrakech’s original riads and still amongst the best. My suite experience involved lounging in my lounge to the sound of the bubbling fountain, going upstairs to bed, and breakfasting on my private terrace. I felt like royalty.
Riad Rosemary: www.rosemarymarrakech.com
I’ve not actually stayed yet, but was lucky enough to be given a look round. This is where I’ll be heading next.
Riad Dar One: www.riad-dar-one.com/en
A good mid-priced option. Small and perfectly formed. And delightfully located through an inauspicious opening in the wall and along a winding alley or two.
Where to eat
Riad El Fenn: www.el-fenn.com/food-and-drink
Staying here is out of my price league, but it’s absolutely my favourite roof top for lunch, dinner or anytime drinks. The terrace offers up wraparound views of the city, a decent pool and tantalising glimpses of what the Fennerati get to enjoy in the multiple ‘just so’ courtyards below. Most residents seem utterly blazé about the pure chic that surrounds them (not to mention the price) and perfecting this look is essential to fully look the part.
Dar Dar Rooftop: www.rooftopdardar.com
As described above. Memorable (or perhaps only partly memorable) Negronis.
L’Mida: www.lmidamarrakech.com
Cool eatery hidden deep in the souks. Nice roof terrace.
Le Jardin: www.lejardinmarrakech.com
This isn’t another garden recommendation, but a cool courtyard restaurant. You dine deep among the foliage surrounded by buzzy chatter. (No alcohol though.)
Le Trou au Mur: www.letrouaumur.com
Sister restaurant of Riad Le Farnatchi
La Famille: www.lafamillemarrakech.com
Authentic, female-run and the perfect shaded beautiful outdoor location for lunch after Bahia Palace.
Al Fassia: www.alfassia.com/aguedal
A destination just-out-of-towner and worth the trip. Order the selection of Moroccan salads to start, I won’t spoil it for you by describing it.
Don’t miss;
Getting lost. You just can’t avoid it, so go with it. I found tracking on my phone better than ever, so you’ll always get where you’re heading eventually.
Ben Youseff Madrassa. www.medersabenyoussef.ma/en/
Recently restored and hugely evocative madrassa and Koranic school
Bahia and El Badi palaces. Each on their own warrants a morning. Get to the Bahia as early as you can or target being there as the crowds thin and closing time approaches.
Le Jardin Secret and Jardin Majorelle: tickets.jardinmajorelle.com
Beyond Majorelle, there aren't that many reasons to visit the new town, Guerliz. Possibly the art galleries. But a random suggestion is Zara - different stock from European branches. And well air conditioned.
Dar el Bacha. www.darbacha.com.
From what I can tell, Dar el Bacha palace and gardens are fabulous. But inaccessible to mere mortals. The Museum of Confluences, however, gives you your best taste, less for the exhibits and more for the famous coffee shop and fantastic central courtyard.
Do Miss
The tanneries. A truly sad place where joie de vivre goes to die.