Thailand
Ayutthaya
Striking gold
So, you may well be thinking ‘Ayu-where?’.
At just an hour north of Bangkok, the chances are you’ve been within striking distance of Ayutthaya. But never struck gold.
Next time you’re going to or through Thailand’s sticky metropolis, do yourself a favour and add this ancient Siamese capital to your trip.
Better still, go directly there from Bangkok airport. Do not Wat Pho. Do not collect 200 Baht. With jetlag, a taxi will have you there before you realise. No need to roll a double. Your Thai immersion can then begin more peacefully.
Without question, the place to ease you in is Sala Ayutthaya. This veritable oasis of loveliness is highly appropriate for two reasons; bricks and water.
Siam’s second capital is sometimes dubbed ‘The Venice of the East’. Although, I've counted no less than 43 other Asian destinations claiming that accolade, including, somewhat implausibly, Chuncheon in South Korea, Hiroshima in Japan and Dhaka in Bangladesh. Ayutthaya actually makes one of the more convincing Venices, along with Luzhi Canal Town in Suzhou, China, Basra in Iraq (search for 'balam'), and Yanagawa, in Fukuoka, Japan.
Situated a long way inland, on an island formed by the confluence of three rivers, the Chao Phraya, Lop Buri and Pa Sak, Ayutthaya's location was chosen strategically to encourage traders and discourage invaders. This was hugely successful for over 400 prosperous years, until the Burmese sacked the capital in 1767 after several years of trying. Burning the city to the ground, they brought that chapter of the Thai kingdom’s history to an end.
Despite that, water still commands its restful influence, slowly percolating through the old city’s grid of canals and moats. Mirror still ponds, waterlilies and low bridges evoke the gardens at Giverny. But forget Claude Monet, you’re in cloud nine. Stupas, prangs, temples and Buddhas mingle with undergrowth and watery undercurrents in an explorer’s paradise of artful ruin.
Hotel Sala Ayutthaya perches beside the Chao Phraya River, facing Wat Phutthaisawan, whose stupas are mirrored perfectly in the flowing waters. Lit up after dark, the show is stupendous.
Water's restful influence
Lord Buddha in the style of Henry Moore
The significance of the river's flow becomes apparent the next morning, over a leisurely breakfast on the terrace. Working boats plough the straits directly in front of your fruit salad. Those heading smugly downstream pass at three times the speed of those chuffing, puffing and slogging against the current. It’s both exhausting and strangely calming to watch. Thank goodness the morning caffeine is in full flow.
The other thing in abundance here is crumbling brickwork. Much of historic Ayutthaya has a distinctly ‘Humpty Dumpty had a great fall’ quality. Not least the ancient Buddhas who pose and preside in pieces, courtesy of the marauding Burmese. Most have been loosely put back together again, piles of curvaceous stones, heads and arms missing, their form still recognisably Buddha-esque, their aura distinctly enlightened. Could they have been Henry Moore’s inspiration?
The backdrop to these ancient works of modern art is yet more brickwork; close cut, organic and textural, with a quality that gives would-be architects like me hot sweats. (Or maybe that’s just the Thai humidity?).
The patina of time reveals the frailty and impermanence of civilisation. But funnily enough, it also underscores resilience and legacy. We're looking at a lost society at its peak. And it’s humbling to witness.
As a compliment to the surrounding ruins, Sala Ayutthaya ups the ante with ultra-modern brickwork. Its red brick structure curves, soars, ascends and speaks to the inner Lego enthusiast in each of us. (Although, the Lego models of my childhood were unfailingly rectilinear. Arcs and curves were way beyond the skill of this amateur constructor).
The hotel's interiors complement this modern brickwork with the inevitable slick concrete, airy drapes, cool white walls and even cooler jazz. Predictability aside, there’s no greater pleasure than returning, hot, sweaty, and saturated by stupas, to Sala Ayutthaya’s calm, sleek modernism. You’d happily pay good money just to step into its enthusiastically air-conditioned reception and gallery.
Predictably deliciously boutique
But enough of that pile of bricks, what about the ancient UNESCO listed site?
Well, it’s all a bit of a blur, if I’m honest. A glorious blur certainly, but after a busy day of temple bashing, it gets hard to distinguish one structure from another. ‘Stupa-fying’ I dubbed it.
Wat Whatever
At least I was able to tell my stupas from my prangs.
Stupas (also known as chedis in Thailand) tend to be round, dumpy and blancmange shaped. Some begin as earth mounds on top of burials, with the brick form constructed on top. Others are hollow dome structures, built to house sacred relics.
Worshipers walk around stupas clockwise, so the stupa is always on the right, the auspicious side.
Prangs on the other hand are ascending spires, tapering upwards like cathedrals. They tend to have Khmer or Hindu influence and highly decorative carvings (or at least they used to). They supposedly symbolised Mount Meru, centre of the universe in Hindu and Buddhist cosmology.
The fact both co-existed in Ayutthaya speaks to the breadth of its influence in its day. And gives the layman, like me, a little something to sound wise about.
Speaking of laymen, even if you’re no expert, there’s a good chance you’ll know the Buddha’s head at Wat Mahathat. It’s the one engulfed by the sprawling roots of a banyan tree. You'll probably be familiar with the image, even if you’d never heard of Ayutthaya. It's rather gripping.
The site of this set-piece crowd puller is pure selfie stick central. It’s worth visiting purely to witness the exquisitely ironic contrast at play. A throng of tourists, each seeking their snap, complete with mindless grin and cheesy peace sign, versus the sheer composure of Lord Buddha, at one with nature, held in perpetual poise by the tree’s tight embrace.
No one knows for sure how the Buddha head came to be in the banyan's grip. Most icons were beheaded by the Burmese. And somehow this head found sanctuary, rather than being carted away or trashed.
Actually, to my eye, this particular Buddha looks distinctly pissed off, certainly less blissed than chubbier versions. But you’d be forgiven for being a little peeved yourself, under the circumstances.
Ayutthaya's crowd puller
Observing the crowds observing the beleaguered Buddha, I spotted a Thai lady sightseeing in the 35 degree heat, carrying her cat in a back pack. Even though the generously sized rucksack was specially adapted to provide airy accommodation and a working fan, the cat looked even less amused than Lord Buddha.
That's the art the dally at work. Always take the time to see more than 'the sights'.
A Few Links and Practicalities
(Just sharing the love. I absolutely don’t get paid for these.)
Sala Ayutthaya:
https://www.salahospitality.com/ayutthaya/
At its peak, Ayutthaya had around 400 temples. There are 41 now. Whilst you won't want to see them all, Ayutthaya clearly warrants more than a day trip. You could easily do three days. Naturally, I lingered a little longer.
If you want to limit yourself to the biggies, I'd recommend the 5 most see temples are:
Wat Phra Si Sanphet: Once the largest temple in the city, in the grounds of the former Royal Palace
Wat Mahathat: Plenty to see beyond our banyan tree Buddha
Wat Lokayasutharam: This one has a 40 meter long reclining outdoor Buddha
Wat Ratchaburana: Includes Ayutthaya's most spectacular prang
Wat Chaiwatthanaram: Although this is off the main island, I highly recommend the slight detour
There's a small entrance fee for most of the bigger temples or a pass that covers them all.
As ever, a bike is your best bet for meandering.
Don’t miss;
Some of the smaller lower billed temples.
Do miss;
Riding on an elephant. However quaint it looks, a little research into what's involved for the elephants should put you off.